Barefoot Hoof Care & Equine Nutrition, LLC

1. Staying on a schedule: Please keep the appointment we set. I know things happen and we may need to occasionally reschedule for various reasons, BUT, if a horse is set to a 4 week schedule yet doesn't get seen until 6+ weeks later, this could be a setback in the progress. Frequent trims/treatment are the only way to address issues and stay ahead.  Those who choose not to pre-schedule appointments and prefer to call or text when they need hoof care may not get an appointment for weeks. I pre-book appointments and attend to those clients first. Don't wait until your equines hooves are grossly overgrown to find a farrier. Overgrown hooves are extra work and are charged accordingly. 

2. Communication: if you have questions or concerns please speak up! I am always happy to answer questions and explain. Please read your invoice. It has condensed trim notes on it from each appointment and will also note if you need to treat the hooves in between trims. Please let me know about your horse and any concerns you have, no matter how trivial you think they may be.

3. Participation: I prefer the owner of the horse or barn manager (that is permitted to make decisions for the owner) to be present at all hoof care appointments. I know it's not always possible, BUT it is preferred due to questions, treatment plans, etc.. If I recommend that you do certain things in between trims, it is advised you do so. Owner participation is crucial! If you are confused or on a tight budget, say so. I will do my best to help you!
   
   * I do not work on horses by myself due to accidents that can happen. If no-one can be there AND I have attended to the horse(s) before, I can bring a handler for the horse(s) but there is an extra charge as I do have to pay them for their time. Please have horse(s) caught and either in a stall or small paddock.

4.  Hard to Handle Animals: while I try to do my very best to work with any horse or donkey, please keep in mind that animals that pull, kick, dance around, bite, etc... are risky to work with and do take extra time out of my day. They are also the cause of strains, sprains,cuts and pulled muscles and sometimes days off and visits to the chiropractor to recuperate. If I spend the time to work with your animal yet can only get one or two feet done, maybe even none... my time is still worth something. You will be charged for it on the invoice. Please work with your animal in between appointments or hire a trainer if you don't know how. I am glad to help if you ask, but I do charge for training. 

• If you cannot halter your horse and pick his/her feet out without the horse pulling, kicking, leaning, etc... please do not expect your farrier to tolerate this. Hire a trainer if you dont know what you are doing. I am no longer accepting unruly horses. This includes young stock, rescues and abused (none of these are excuses for bad behavior). Hire a trainer FIRST. Once the horse is safe to work on, then call the farrier..

5. Horses Ready: have horses "clean" and ready for me (wipe off muddy legs, if the horse is soaking wet please towel them or put in a stall to dry off). Mud and water ruin tools. My time is valuable and I expect to begin work as soon as I arrive. I will not catch your horse(s) for you unless you want to pay the training rate as well.

6. Appropriate and Safe Work Space: I can only do my best work on a clean, dry, level surface (concrete, rubber mats, etc..). Working on uneven ground, muddy areas or grass does not allow for the best views of the hoof and is distracting. While I do not require a barn, I do require shade in the summer and a wind break in the winter. If you don't have a roof, I will not work in the rain. Please keep dogs, cats and other animals out of the area and limit the activity around the horse being worked on. I love children, but please keep small children out of the work area. Opening and closing gates/stalls, feeding, people milling about, machinery running are all potential distractions for the horse being worked on and may become hazardous for me.

7. Cancellations: it is preferable you reschedule or cancel your appointment 48 hours in advance so I can re-plan that day. There are times that you may need to reschedule or cancel your appointment last minute. Situations like illness, bad weather, vet emergency or work issues are all understandable. Hair appointments and vacations are not. For non emergency reschedules or cancellations please let me know a week in advance. Due to rising costs I try to group appointments in the same area to reduce costs for you and time spent traveling for me. Any last minute missed appointments may not be able to be seen until next cycle. The sooner you let me know, the sooner I can get you back in the schedule. 

8. No Show: Those who do not show up at all (within 15 minutes of appointment time) will be billed a $60 no show fee (plus a farm call fee if applicable) and no further appointments will be scheduled until that is paid. I have an automated service that sends you a reminder text 2 days before your appointment. Not many farriers do this. It is your responsibility to keep track of your appointment dates. The reminder is a courtesy.
   

9. Weekends: I do not work weekends. I need time to rest and be with my family too. While I do not schedule weekend appointments, I will come if you have an emergency. The farm call fee is $60, plus labor, materials and mileage.

10. Farm call: those further than 15 miles from my location are charged a farm call fee. It is $1.50 per mile one way. This must be paid prior to your first appointment. 

11. Payment: payment is due at time of service. Cash and check are accepted. PayPal is accepted if you pay the transaction fee. I can accommodate credit cards with notice. $30 fee for bad checks. $25 per week late fee/service charge for all unpaid invoices. No further appointments will be scheduled until invoice has been paid in full.
    
    
    Some side notes: 

12. In the summer: please use good fly spray on your horses before your hoof care appointment. It is almost impossible to do quality work on a horse that is fighting with flies and can even be dangerous for me. Please do not apply anything to their feet or bathe them before their appointment. Greasy feet and wet horses are terrible to work on and damage metal tools.
    
    In the winter: please clean mud off your horses and their feet. I don't want to be wet, cold and muddy the rest of the day. Mud also damages tools and ruins a rasp in a hurry. I dont expect spotless, just wiped off. If you choose to hose their legs before I arrive please allow enough time for them to dry off.

13.  DO NOT call your farrier for any horse related emergencies that do not deal with the hooves. Most emergencies require a vet. 

Examples of farrier related "emergencies":  pulled shoe, horse limping (no blood)

NOT farrier related emergencies: If your horse is colicing, choking, bleeding... call a vet NOT the farrier. People think calling the farrier saves them money but it is the wrong person to call in an emergency. No matter how much experience your farrier has, we are not licensed medical providers. It is illegal.

Do not ask us to administer sedatives to your animal or give injections. Again, we are not vets and are not legally permitted to do these tasks.

1. Find a vet that will work closely with you and your farrier

2. Radiographs (xrays) of hooves. These must be current for a farrier to be able to use. Not xrays from years or weeks past. Ideally have the vet and farrier out at the same time for the xrays.

3. Blood work. Have metabolic blood work done, to include ACTH (to check for cushings disease). If the horse is positive for PPID (cushings), start on medication (Pracend/Pergolide).

4. Identify the source of the lamanitis/founder and eliminate it. 

5. Dial in the diet. This often means... no grain, sweet feed, apples, peppermints or anything with sugar. High starch hay is even a problem. When in doubt, soak the hay for 1 hour before feeding. Click the "Emergency Help for Laminitis" button above for more detailed info.

6. Have a dry lot or grass free area of some kind to keep your horse. A grazing muzzle is not enough protection.

7. Purchase hoof boots for realignment trim. This will save you money on shoeing costs and alot of headaches. My boot of choice is Soft Ride at this link https://www.softrideboots.com/boots-and-gels.php . Many like the Easy Care Cloud boots at this link https://www.easycareinc.com/our_boots/Easyboot-Cloud.asp

Without doing all the above, noone is going to be able to get your horse back to soundness. I will not work on a lamanitic/foundered horse without you (the owner) committing to doing your part. 

Glue on success depends on a few factors. Dryness of the hoof, prep work and working conditions when applied.

For me to do the best job possible I do need owners to follow these guidelines:

• Hooves need to be as dry as possible. No amount of torching will dry a water logged hoof enough for glue to hold long term.
  

• Horses should be on clean and dry bedding in a stall for at least 4 hours (if the grass has dew), or overnight if the weather is rainy prior to glue on shoe application.
  

• I will need a clean, flat, level surface to work on out of the weather. A barn aisle, wash rack or the like with concrete or rubber mats.
  

• If the weather is below 35 degrees or above 95 degrees we will need to reschedule the glue on shoes. Glue is very temperature sensitive. Too cold and it takes forever to set up and may not set up correctly, too hot and it sets too fast. Neither is good for shoe retention.
  

• I will occasionally need nearby access to a power source to heat fit or plug in a warmer for the glue in the winter months.
  

• Your horse must stand well. Leg pullers and nervous horses end up wasting a lot of glue, which is reflected on the bill. If the horse allows me to use a drill powered hoof buffy and torch, the glue on results are far better than if they don't.
  

• Ask your vet about Dormosedan gel for your hoof care appointment if your horse is too squirmy. It is a light sedative that you, the owner, administers via mouth (like a de-wormer) 40 minutes prior to your appointment.
  
  

2024 Pricing

Cash, Checks and Paypal are accepted. If you use PayPal, please add 3.5% if using “Goods and Services” to cover the processing fee.

Maintenance Trims (4-6 week cycle)

Horses/Ponies  $60

Draft Cross $70-$100

Drafts $120

Minis $50

** Overgrown/ Neglected Hooves are billed on a case by case basis (difficulty and time involved are factors). 

** Animals that do not stand well (jerk legs, dance around, pull, lean will warrant a higher rate. 

** Any animal that attempts to kick or bite will be billed accordingly and work may or may not be completed. The animal will get one chance, after that I will not work on them again without a trainer working with them first if it is a behavior/training issue. If it is a medical/pain issue, then a vet will need to see them first.

Other Services: (These are fluctuating prices. Ask about pricing before your appointment as material costs go up and down. These prices are for 14-17hh horses. I do not shoe drafts)

Hoof Casts:  $35 per cast

Nail On Composite Shoes (Trim all 4 and shoes on front):  $130 (resets with trim $90)       Trim and Shoe all 4:  $200 (resets with trim $120)

Glue on Shoes: (Trim all 4 and shoes on front): $250     Trim and shoe all 4: $400

Formahoof:   Not currently offering Formahoof anymore due to issues with getting supplies and high costs. 

Travel rate for those further than 15 miles from my location: $1.50 per mile one way. Does require a certain number of horses to warrant the travel or the day rate paid. 

Thermal Imaging: $60 (up to 1/2 hour)

Emergency / After Hours: $60 plus materials, labor and mileage (if applicable)

Nutrition Assistance/Track system: general questions/discussions are free for current clients

Boot Fittings: free with paid trim

K.I.S.Trace® Powder - I carry the low selenium powder. One 20lb bag lasts one 1,000lb horse 80 days  (Introductory price of $95 per 20lb bag. Will go to $99)

Pasture Paste:  $15 per jar. Clay based field paste used to treat and prevent fungal issues.